For a beginner, i'd still recommend dreamweaver. Using it in design mode is easy, and the resulting code, while not perfect, is still 1/4 the size of a frontpage or word produced html page. The benefit with Dreamweaver, is you can pickup bits of html and learn it.
Filezilla is a great program for BATCH FTP uploads, but for single page changes, you can't go past the ease of Dreamweaver (upload on save is a great feature). I use both, as some sites go through a testing phase, some are only minor text changes.
I may be a little biased here, as i've been using dreamweaver for a while, and know it well.