Crank shaft bolt meets The Hulk!

[JMO]

Okay....

I seem to have put myself into a little bit of a pickle. I managed to sheer the crank shaft bolt about 25mm from the head. See pic below...

The thing is I've taken it off once before and I know it's meant to be a bit of a bugger to get off. A $15.00 seal has probably blown out to who knows how much...

Now for the fun bit. Does anyone know of a mobile thread repair service or something similar?

I hope it's not an engine out or front end off job. :(

The way I feel right now, I think I'm about ready to hang up the tool belt...

[JMO]

Should have mentioned I'm in Melbourne. The only mobile thread repairers I've found so far are in QLD or NSW.

[burnz]

ok a quick fix.. with the remaining bolt grind 1mm off the length then reuse...

ps: best to check how much thread depth you have...

[JMO]

Looks like it may have sheared flush. I'll check it tomorrow morning when there is more light. I can't see how I managed to get more than half of it out and then somehow manage to shear it.

[burnz]

Originally Posted by JMO

Looks like it may have sheared flush. I'll check it tomorrow morning when there is more light. I can't see how I managed to get more than half of it out and then somehow manage to shear it.

is it possable to drill then use an ez out?? maybe a bit tough because it broke in the first place..

[JMO]

Not sure about the ez out, as you said the bolt did break in the first place. Drilling it correctly is the other problem. It doesn't look like there is much room for a drill in there without pulling the radiator out at the minimum. the condenser and the grille might have to come out to get a good straight on view at it.

[burnz]

dont forget the aircon...more dramas.

[aussiblue]

You may be able to use a Dremel or similar mini rotary tool or dir grinder with a cutting disk to cut a slot it what's left then screw it out with a screwdriver; this method has worked for me in the past.

[MNM96]

Seek the help of a professional! Any decent Mobile Mechanic.

[GK]

Originally Posted by MNM96

Seek the help of a professional! Any decent Mobile Mechanic.

I'd be inclined to do the same.

If you take this option, chat to them about what's wrong and if they've had any experience at such jobs in the past. Also if you can, find out how they'd propose to tackle the problem. This might give you more confidence in choosing the right person for the job.

All the best with it.

GK

[KR1STO]

Smart words GK... Totally agree...!

[wesomc]

Did it break undoing it? If so you may find it very hard to remove. If it is flush you could try weld a nut (of smaller int. diameter) onto the end of it (basically fill the middle of the nut with weld) and use the nut to unscrew it, sometimes the extra bit of heat helps. Good luck with it.

Wes

[LaurieS]

Hope this helps,

THREAD REPAIR SERVICE
AUS VICTORIA-VIC 3930 MELBOURNE-MOUNT ELIZA, 24 MATONG ROAD
BOLTS, BOLT, NUTS, NUT

Regards, LaurieS.

[JMO]

Thanks for that LaurieS and to everyone for their input so far. I think I will leave it to a professional. The last thing I want is to have to repair more damage of my own doing...

[crakrz]

What part of Melbourne?

[AUIIPURSUIT]

The Thread Doctor
0419507633


in narre

[SXR6]

Get a screw extracter bit and drill it out.
http://www.coateshomecentre.com.au/t...pped_screw.htm

[crakrz]

To get the bolt half way out and then shear off- I imagine it was getting tighter as is was coming out. If so, the thread has started picking up on the way out. This means an easy-out will most likely be out of the question. The last thing you want is to break off an easy out too. Easy-outs tend to spread the outer walls of the bolt as you twist them. This sometimes makes the problem worse. In your pic the bolt thread looks very dry. Has this been out before to your knowledge.

The first thing we need to know is how tight was it coming out, was it spinning quite freely and then locked up- or it was tight and just got tighter from there.

I have done many on site broken stud/bolt removals and I think that whoever does the job for you had better start by-

1. An accurate centre punch on the remaining part of the bolt.

2. A starting pilot hole of approx 4mm. This must be aligned perfectly as each step follows this one. This is the most important part!!!!!

3. Slowly keep drilling out with a larger drill each time until you get as close to the thread as possible.

4. then carefully with a small die grinder and carbide burr or a dremel, grind a narrow cut down the length of the remaining thread wall. This usually collapses the wall of the remaining thread and you can start picking little wiry bits of thread out with a scribe or small screwdriver.

5. Then a tap needs to be run down the thread of course to clean it up.

This will most likely take a few hours of very careful work. But the time saved is priceless. This problem "can" be fixed, and without any further damage, but and I mean BUT- The person doing it must be extremely patient. If they are not, they will get into further troubles. All drills must be very sharp and ground correctly so that they dont "walk" as you try to drill.

If you run into trouble and can't find anyone let me know. PM

[AUIIPURSUIT]

agree with crakrz 100%. if you get an easyout kit onto this, youll most likely make matters alot worse. easy outs arent that good, unless they are quality.


the person i linked is mobile and is the bees knees. i had him extract a snapped manifold bolt on my old car and he takes his work very seriously. Hes highly regarded on the biggest car forums in australia (albeit in the vic section).

good luck mate.

[JMO]

Thanks AUII Pursuit I gave the guy a call and he's coming round tomorrow.

crakrz, thanks for the informative post.

The bolt was difficult to get moving but I eventually started it going, with a fair bit of effort and it did get tighter before it let go. Does that give you any ideas as to why it happened?

I have taken the pulley off once before and lubricated the bolt with engine oil before putting it back in. I thought that applying anti seize wasn't a good idea as it affects the torque reading when tightening it up. If oil was a bad idea, what do you recommend using?

[crakrz]

Hi JMO, you mentioned that the bolt began to get tighter on the way out. This is usually either the thread starting to "pick up" as in metal to metal, or sometimes old sealer like loctite or something similar is caught up in the threads and jamming up on the way out.

Oil is ok as a lubricant, but sometimes can bake on with heat over time. I use Loctite Anti-seize brush on paste on everything from my wheelnuts, headbolts, exhaust bolts, spark plug threads, almost everything come to think of it.

You mentioned about anti-seize affecting torque readings- you are right, but its in a positive way. Lubricant eliminates friction which then gives you the correct torque and therefore the correct designed bolt stretch. Remember- you want clamping force at the face of the bolt, not friction on the thread.

I always use a small amount of anti-seize on the thread and some on the underside of the head of the bolt too. If you do this as a habit you will never struggle with threads and bolts again.

I hope it all works out ok for you, keep us posted.

-Craig

[AMB]

Originally Posted by JMO

..............I have taken the pulley off once before and lubricated the bolt with engine oil before putting it back in. I thought that applying anti seize wasn't a good idea as it affects the torque reading when tightening it up. If oil was a bad idea, what do you recommend using?

Oil would not be the cause. Strange that you had it off before, you'd think it was stuck cos hasn't been removed since new. You might save some money, by removing radiator etc, he will need good access from the front.

[LaurieS]

JMO, let us all know the result of using The Thread Doctor to sort this out, I live local to Narre, I have needed him in the past but did not know he existed.

LaurieS.