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#151 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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I have a 1.3 automatic injected and I get 300km city driving
400 /tank is good vippin is the laser guru pm him for a second opinion
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#152 | ||
Piston Broke
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 12
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Thanks dirty will try vippin.
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#153 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 3
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Hey Dirty Hands,
thanks in advance... I have two 84 Telstars both still driving quite well even though they've done about 265k each. (One 2.0 Auto no air, no power anything. The other, 2.0 Manual, aircon etc) Problem: They both stink! Excessive exhaust fumes come in through the windows (when open), especially when at the lights, but even when driving. Had multiple mechanics look them over, can't seem to find anything wrong with them. We have been using regular unleaded for ages without problems, occasionally use 95 or 98 unleaded for better mileage. Is there something about this model that is prone to this kind of problem? They don't blow smoke (expect for little bit at start or if you really floor it taking off, but even then, not too bad) |
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#154 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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fit a catalytic converter if you use unleaded
that may help the valve stem seals have hardened they can be replaced without removing the head(smoke on start up) recheck all the antipollution vaccume lines and valves also once the charcole canister fills up it no longer absorbes the fumes from the engine so replace that with one that fits if original cant be found
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#155 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 3
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Thanks again for your help dirty hands.
I'm not mechanically minded, what kind of cost do you think I'd be looking at to get a catalytic converter added? (I had no idea that they didn't have them!) How much to replace the charcoal canister? ![]() |
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#156 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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catalytic converters not mandatory try approx $100 fitted
see if you can pick up a charcole canister at a wrecker clean out the pvc valve (crankcase venitlation valve ) on the rocker cover
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#157 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 1
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Hey,
I have an 84 kb ford laser that for the past 3 days has been overheating on me after driving short distances. Yesterday i had been driving for 20 mins, temp gage went sky hi and as i went to pull up at a set of traffic lights my car died. Pull over to the side of the road and there was a heap of oil on the road. Admitadly i did over fill the oil by accident after letting it get very low cause my oil light isnt registering properly. Any help or ideas as to what is wrong?? Please? |
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#158 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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how much smoke is the motor blowing /kms traveled/
if left you may need a second motor check list stuck thermomostat - replace cooling fans not working (electrical fault or fuse ) clogged radiator -flush low oil pressure fix as many leaks as possible change oil filter change the oil sender switch check compression in cylinders and look for water in the oil look for (blown head gasket /water in the oil /warped head/valve stem guides) next is worse have an oil pressure reading taken if low it may be a oil pump a clogged pick up filter in sump or worn bearings needing an engine rebuilt of some kind
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#159 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Geelong Victoria
Posts: 111
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Hey,
My girlfriend has a 1987 telstar ghia with the 2.0 engine and auto trans. Recently we haven't been able to start the car after long trips or on hot days. THe starter just won't turn over, we wait ahlf an hour and then we're off again. However today we started it and the starter kept going, even when the key was in off position. I'm guessing the start is stuffed, are the easy to replace/cheap? I'm pretty mechanically minded but I haven't worked on the little motors much. Thanks in advance Nath |
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#160 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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first check the wire running from the positive terminal to the starter
make sure the wire is secure and corrosion free both ends also look at the smaller ignition wire ..make sure it is tight to its push on next check the alternator is charging this may be a ignition key problem if the starter turns over the solenoid must be ok if it clicks or there are other noises from the starter remove it and have it looked at or get a spare from a wrecker if the car is an auto there is a vaccume device that fills with auto oil/or engine oil deposits and gives trouble you can replace that
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#161 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Geelong Victoria
Posts: 111
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Thanks dirty hands, i'll check them first thing. Battery is fully charged no prob there.
I just tried again to start it, the starter turns over but the engien fails to start. when it finishs cranking the starter makes a very audible click and the tacho goes from 0 to 8k then back again, strange. THe problem keeps changing every day. its been resonably warm here so i thought it might be the vapour lock problem as described in your previous posts. |
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#162 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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ok take out the starter
if you know how to pull one apart have a look at the brushes or just get one from a wrecker you can use a mazda 626 starter of a 2 ltr
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#163 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 32
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hey i have a 1985 ford telstar tx5 turbo as now i know you know nothing about turbo but this is a aircon problem really
anyways so when i turn the a/c on the rpm drops down and the car vibrates what will be the cause of that and allso to is the the 1988 ford laser ke wheel hub + disc brake compatiable with the 1985 ford telstar tx5 as turbo as i got quoted to machine my disc a $150 a side as they need to be machined on the car as the disc are pressed in on the wheel hub |
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#164 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 32
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i bought a air/fuel ratio gauge i hooked it up right and the instructions say to the o2 sensor *o2 sensor is brand new bty*now what i dont under stand is that when coming to a stop say at the lights and then go again the engine feels like it is back fireing but it only does that when the air/fuel ratio gauge is hooked up and then it drives normal allmost like its got a huge flat spot
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#165 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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air con could be a vaccume problem or adjust the idle up
only other possible is a aircon system leak ..is it cold dont know about the front rotors- you have to check/count the splines on the CV drive shafts they may be different I know of the air fuel ratio guages ... is it earthed properly and do the led lights work or needle move as you rev just one idea http://autospeed.com/cms/A_0217/article.html if it is efi the airflow meter and TPS will need looking at is this one an auto or manual gearbox
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#166 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 32
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i checked the idle up on the left side and nothing happen but on the right side there is other screw the same and that did turn the revs up but the rpm still droped and the air fuel ratio gauge it is earthed properly and the led lights do work but nothing happens when reving it and it s a 1985 ford telstar tx5 as turbo 5 speed manual only pussy's drive auto but my apexi turbo timer the air/fuel ratio reads 1.55 to2.00 even thow that part isent connected and allso to verfiy aswell my exhuast does have smelly fumes like it is running really rich should i take it in for a majour service as i know it is over due for one
Last edited by hydrulictelstar; 05-01-2008 at 01:55 AM. |
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#167 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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aircon rpm control runs through the engine management computer
resetting the tps should fix that (next service ) the dissy module sends the rpms the ox sensor usually runs low volts and is best on highway runs ..not city driving so my best guess is that unit is working runing rich ...how old is your cat converter and at the tune make sure they check the engine management diagnostics
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#168 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 32
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cat converter looks like its original and how do i go about resetting the tps what ever that is
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#169 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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TPS throttle position sensor
black unit with a few wires near the throttle body a volt meter and paper clips turn ign to on pos get a reading of say .5 volts that would be close if you get a higher reading you are on the wrong wires
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#170 | ||
BOOSTED TX3
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 6
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hey dirty hands
can you tell me if the telstar hand brake is compatible with the '92 TX3 Turbo? I have snapped the front piece of the 3 piece assembly....the one from the handbrake lever on the inside of the car. Also how do I go about changing it? Thanks |
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#171 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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tx3 is the laser so no it probably wont have the same mounting bolts
the hand brake is bolted on to the floor with a few bolts you have to undo the centre console then slacken off the handbrake cables replace the handbrake unit (buy one from a ford wrecker wont be too much ) then refit the cables ( 5 to 7 clicks or till the handbrake holds ) done
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#172 | ||
BOOSTED TX3
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 6
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Thanks mate. Much appreciated.
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#173 | ||
BOOSTED TX3
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 6
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oh, just while i'm on, today i was cruisin around when all of a sudden i heard this loud clanking from under the hood. sounds like a chunk of metal pinging around a 44 gallon drum....
only happens when i accelerate/let the clutch out on 1st gear, sometimes happens for 2nd too. Has my clutch gone? clutch plate missing teeth? please help!! i probably should add that lately i've been feeling a small jolt when trying to take off in first, the instant i try to let out the clutch. not smoothly taking off. perhaps not grabbing the gear properly??? i dunno.... |
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#174 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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dont drive the car much furthur till you inspect
remove the small metal inspection plate between the gearbox and the motor sump you may have a loose bolt inside the bell housing while the inspection plate is off rotate the motor and tighten all the clutch plate bolts clutch plate may have broken one of the pressure plates --running off the throw out bearing .this would make gear changing difficult in search type in clutch or Pressure plate http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ find a image off the web of a clutch plate and that will give you an idea
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#175 | ||
BOOSTED TX3
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 6
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no trouble at all with changing gear, the clutch hasn't lost any pressure at all.....aside from the initial taking-off, i have no trouble with clutch/trans....
after driving it a little today i'm beginning to think it's the drive shaft/cv's....would i be far off? clicks when taking off, jolts the car slightly at the same time....only ever happens at low speed.... |
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#176 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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all about CVs
Part one general information http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint1.htm Part two faults and diagnosis http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm usually just buy an exchange CV joint and have the supplier fit it
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#177 | ||
BOOSTED TX3
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 6
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Thanks for that. The symptoms on that website match my problem....
replacing CV/driveshaft is a lot cheaper than clutch/trans anyway! |
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#178 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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bump ..no sticky
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#179 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1
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By reading previous posts, Ive gathered the firing order for A Ford Telstar 1984 2 Litre manual is 1 3 4 2. What Im also wondeing is, does the sequence of order on the distributor run clockwise, and how do I find out where the plug lead from from No1 on engine goes to on distributor? so on, so on, Is there a mark on dis cap? Thankyou
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#180 | ||
Over Thinker
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ipswich Qld
Posts: 1,351
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number one Cyl is nearest the timing pully and drive belts
rotate the motor till you feel the air compressing in number one cyl if you take of the cap you will see the motor runs clockwise rotate the motor and stop when the num 1 pistion is at its highest the timing mark on the timing pully should be in the area of TDC (if not you are on number 4 cylinder) note the position of the rotor on the dissy and cap .point ..thats lead one so mark the leads
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