free advice on the 83-87 telstar

[dirty hands]

Automatic transmission information

ATF type F --- full service 5.7 litres
warm up the engine cycle through the gears put the car in park check oil level
should be between L and F
leak should be fixed
look for other leaks at the oil pump,vaccum modulator and drive shaft seals
oil pan bolts 8 nm
no sump nut setting nm (not over tight its only aluminiuim)

[meanbow]

: without sounding sanppy or ungrateful...but HOW do i get them out?
i can't see any obvious nuts/bolts, apart from the headlamp adjustment screw on each unit.
it's been driving me nuts all day

[dirty hands]

does this help ? this is in a suppliment I have
step 4 the plastic stuff around the light has to be undone to get the lamp right out

[dirty hands]

it is not an easy job
you see the bracket at the end of the light ,there are two of those each side ....
I hope you can see the screws

and I did break the plastic surrounds to get the headlights out the screws had rusted

[meanbow]

thanks for that, dirty hands.
i managed to get the units out and replaced the bulbs, now i have lights again!
you are great :Reverend:

while i had them out, i replaced and upgraded the bulbs to crystal ultra blue's...what a difference in the dark they make

[dirty hands]

manual transmission sae 80 /w 90 Capacity full service 3.4 litres
fuel tank 60 ltres
brakes dot 3
cooling system 7 litres

engine oil with filter 3.9 litres
engine oil without 3.6 litres

[dirty hands]

if anyone has suggestions as to what other helpfull information should be in this section please let me know

[GRNKPR]

Sell It

[dirty hands]

mmmm after 1,172 posts you have made that is your best advice
ok I will keep that in mind :eclipsee_

[GRNKPR]

now i have more posts its still the same advice aaaaarrrrrgggggghhhhhhhhhh im a pirate

[meanbow]

Hi again...just a quickie this time
what is the recommended maximum mileage for a timing cambelt on the '83 Telstar as mine is now pushing 73,000 and to my knowledge it hasn't been done.
i basically need to know how long it can go at a MAX on the current belts, as i have to save a bit of cash to pay a mechanic to do the job first

and no sarky comments about changing the car instead please... :

[dirty hands]

50,000 km
I made 2 posts on how to do a timing belt -- page one
near the bottom the picture is a shocker

the timing /belt pully has to come off and you work through the wheel arch

I have done it myself but you have to mark the top cam sprocket and not move the engine you can be one knotch out due to the new belt
also check the water pump
I think there is an allen key for the tensioner but I didnt need it
I just slipped the new belt on ---
the timing pully just slipped off after i undid the nut (you might be lucky )
Holla if you need more information :1syellow1

[dirty hands]

I dont know a heap about the turbo versions :
these two sites might help :

http://www.mx6.com /forums

http://z3.invisionfree.com/tx5/index.php?

[meanbow]

Hey all...again
this is a major question on the dashboard of the early Telstar...i thought i had the dash problem licked on my model, but all of a sudden...it's started back up again with the intermittent working nonsense.

does anyone know if the dashboards between the models fitted with a digital and an analougue are interchangeable..i.e are all the connections the same?

from a book i managed to get hold of for an equivelant model Mazda 626,a talk to the local Mazda dealer and from a limited knowledge of stripping the damn thing down countless times....it seems very similar to me

just a yes or no will do, thanks :

[dirty hands]

check if the digital uses a speedo cable or a sensor at the gearbox
no other info in fittment

[meanbow]

i can tell you from experience...it's a speedo cable, not a sensor

[dirty hands]

two attachments it is all I have

[rammed wx]

i have a kc laer with a blown head gasket.
if i pull off the head and get it machined and a new gasket.
is it difficult to put back on?
is there any special tools etc.
just wondering, because the mechanic is trying to charge me $800.
thanks

[dirty hands]

a laser question is best answered by the laser guru "vippin" pm him
$800 is about right allowing for head work like welding valve seats a head reface
$400 for head and gaskets and 3 hours labour

special tools- torque wrench, metric sockets ,and a repair manual to know how to get the timing belt right .

[GRNKPR]

2 months ago i said sell it and your still going aaaaaarrrrrghhhhhhhhhh im still a pirate

[meanbow]

and out of all those bits you have listed, how many of them have YOU fitted or worked on....? :dr_Evil:
aaaarrrrrrrggggggggghhhhh! 4:

[AutoTX5]

I have a Ford Telstra TX5 1989 (sorry it is not an '87) with electronically controlled automatic transmission (EC-AT) (G4A-EL).

The problem is there seems to be unnecssary kick down of the auto, possibly into a lower gear or a slip. This seems to happen regulary during city/suburban driving where there are speed humps and other traffic.

So it seems like that the accelerator is sensitive to slight movements of the foot, and causes the kick down and the revs to go up.

I have tried adjusting the pressure control cable for the auto but a guage is required to check the line pressure accurately.

There is also a Hold button on the auto selector so that the auto stays in the selected gear. This helps but it means you must change the gears manually.

[dirty hands]

there is a kickdown band adjustment that can be done at any automatic workshop (someone who knows fords )
and a service oil change and filter would be a good idea

the transmission control tcu or ecu or the icu unit may be faulty
undo the battery teminals for 10 minites this may reset your computers

if nothing changes you may need a diagnostic of those units

wont be a line pressure problem as you have all the gears

[AutoTX5]

Thanks for the info. Here is some feedback:

I recently changed the Auto oil & filter. A bugger of a job as I had to undo the engine mounts so that I could get enough room to remove the oil pan so I could change the filter. The maunual says you only need a lever to raise the engine???

I also tried to adjust the band (** is this the one your talking about? **) while the pan was out, to the spec of 11 Nm, but it was too hard to undo the lock nut, so I left it. Spewing about this!!!

I have also removed the control unit a while a go so I could put some LED's on the gear change leads that go to auto, but could not make sense of the LED indications. So the battery was disconnected for a long time anyway. A big long reset.

Any other advice I can use as a do it yourselfer or questions I should ask an Auto specialist to make sure they know enough about this type of auto before they dive into it?

[dirty hands]

a kickdown band adjustment may still be needed

not able to undo the locknut could mean anything -- even a new kickdown band replacement
now in the hands of the automatic workshop
I found this group of automatic shops good--- but there are others
http://www.allstatestrans.com.au/locations.htm

only other thing it may be if an EFI -- is the throttle position sensor at the throttle body
a diagnostic run on the transmission control unit of your car should pick up any electronic management fault

[AutoTX5]

I was not able to remove the locknut because you had to hold the adjuster, a 1/4 inch bolt while undoing the locknut that was probably set to higher than 34Nm (spec). Too hard under a set of car ramps and probably the wrong set of tools.

Yep- throttle position sensor is at the throttle body.

Its on the way to the auto workshop now.

[dirty hands]

this one

[dirty hands]

meanbow is your car running great now

[meanbow]

4: My car's running just fine now dirty hands.many thanks for asking.
it's just so hard getting parts for a car from austrailia thats not meant for the U.K,espescially as i've been told by the austrailian ford owners club uk that it's the only one they know of IN this country...at least i have a sympathetic motor factors who helps me get service parts...

[dirty hands]

good thing the telstars are reliable