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Old 02-03-2011, 11:34 PM   #1
ant.1969
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Default 2001 xr8

looking to purchase a 2001 series 2 220kw xr8. What do i need to look out for? Any simple probs any major probs? Would love to hear any comments as dont want to outlay $$$$ for prob car as have owned plenty of fal 6's with no probs. thanks all Ant

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Old 03-03-2011, 12:43 AM   #2
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Have a read through the au section mate, you'll get a good response there. Alternatively look through 'common problems with the AU'.
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Old 03-03-2011, 02:09 AM   #3
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Wish i never sold mine,but they do drink alot of petrol !
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Old 03-03-2011, 09:48 AM   #4
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Just the usual - make sure gear box is smooth, look out for diff whine, check radiator & oil etc. The advantage of buying one of these things, is that even a relatively major mechanical fix is still cheaper than some of the later models cars.
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:40 AM   #5
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Common IRS problems are top shock mounts and rear wheel hub bearings.

Great cars but getting on a bit. Get cooling system pressure tested as if radiator has not been replaced it won't be far off
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Old 03-03-2011, 12:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GULL
Wish i never sold mine,but they do drink alot of petrol !
Compared to a BOSS they use bugger all and yes I have owned both.
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Old 03-03-2011, 12:57 PM   #7
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Rust in the boot and under the rear bar
Cheers Jason
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Old 03-03-2011, 01:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b2tf
Compared to a BOSS they use bugger all and yes I have owned both.

Same here, I have owned both and the Boss drinks plenty more juice than the weezor..
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Old 03-03-2011, 02:51 PM   #9
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If you are planing to do alot of miles your face may develop a permanent grin.
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donny
Same here, I have owned both and the Boss drinks plenty more juice than the weezor..
......... and doesn't sound as good!
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:06 PM   #11
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For sure, the weezor sounds much better. Sounds more old school.
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:24 PM   #12
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You sure you wouldnt want a S3? Ive got one here thats had all the work done already. With a stupidly low price tag....
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Old 07-03-2011, 10:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant.1969
looking to purchase a 2001 series 2 220kw xr8. What do i need to look out for?
Look out for a rogue seller. I think only Series III had the 220kW motor.
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Old 08-03-2011, 02:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T3man
Look out for a rogue seller. I think only Series III had the 220kW motor.
Nope - series II XR8 onwards have got the 220 hand built jobbies.
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Old 08-03-2011, 06:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auxr
Nope - series II XR8 onwards have got the 220 hand built jobbies.
Slight correction, later Series 2 XR8's got the 220kw donk... And all Series 3 XR8's.
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:25 PM   #16
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I believe the Rebels were the first AUII's to get the 220 and it was continued on after that. That was April 2001.
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b2tf
Compared to a BOSS they use bugger all and yes I have owned both.

I agree get 800k's out of a tank on the highway and not too bad economy around town, does sip a bit if you're heavy footed tho. Like anything really
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b2tf
I believe the Rebels were the first AUII's to get the 220 and it was continued on after that. That was April 2001.
Correct only 125 Rebels in Series II were 220 kw. Only then Series III xr8 were 220kw
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:47 PM   #19
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have a look at the steering rack too they hav a few dramas, done one on mine and thru the parts store where i work if a ford rack is replaced its for an AU,
not too bad tho when you look at holden racks are sold around 10to fords 1
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tickford Rebel
Correct only 125 Rebels in Series II were 220 kw. Only then Series III xr8 were 220kw
Incorrect.

I have a series 2 with a 220 (standard from June 2001; mine just scrapes in - it was built in June 2001). The AU2 220s were around (for a month) before the AU2 Rebel (believe it or not!)

Quote:
"An important 220 kW XR8 upgrade was then announced in June 2001 as an AU Series II running change. This coincided with the switch from the alloy heads for the 220 kW engine in the T-Series to the locally re-engineered cast iron heads which were combined with a larger throttle body, matched port inlet manifold and a revised camshaft. This new engine was a hand-assembled Tickford item. Sideskirts and body colour exterior mirrors were now standard.

This was followed by the July 2001 release of the XR8 Rebel which featured new Ford Racing exterior additions and seven spoke 18 inch Speedline alloy wheels. Pick this model with its grey accents and mesh inserts.
"

Link to the history of these cars:
http://www.fpv.com.au/theheritage/fa...onxr8-220.aspx
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

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Old 08-03-2011, 11:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T3man
Look out for a rogue seller. I think only Series III had the 220kW motor.
Or rogue TE owners!!
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

Ford Performance Club ACT
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:30 PM   #22
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I can't think of anything in particular to "look out for" over the things you should be looking for with any used car.

Check fluids are clean and up to their appropriate level.

Look for oil underneath - engine, gearbox and diff. Look at the owners driveway for old puddles too. Underside should not be oily but also no harm in being suspicious of over-clean sparkling underside or engine bay either.

Make sure it drives, accelerates, brakes and corners smoothly and there are no bonks, knocks, rattles or bangs.

Check for rust in all the obvious/visible places as well as:
top corners of the boot channel (where the gas strut mounts)
forward most end of the inner sills
a-pillars where the door hinges attach (with the front doors open)
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