Time to mod my LV - Page 10

In Focus · 15-10-2011, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Damo

I had a quick look at my front right tyre as I had it on full lock while parked, I noticed the very outside tread wear indicator is level with the tread, car has 15,000km on it.

Also with camber kit for the lowering springs, do I need front AND rear camber kits?

1. Have you rotated the tyres?

2. Only a rear camber kit.

Franco Cozzo · 15-10-2011, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by In Focus

1. Have you rotated the tyres?

2. Only a rear camber kit.

1. No, not yet, I should probably do that, I'll bring my impact gun home on Monday.

2. Thanks

My springs, cold air intake and floor mats have been ordered in by Sascha at EP, how long did you guys find it takes to arrive in Australia?

In Focus · 15-10-2011, 11:59 PM

3 weeks for me (whatever the cheapest option was), but someone else said theirs took 7...

Franco Cozzo · 16-10-2011, 12:09 AM

It seems shipping takes a lot longer from countries around Europe than it does from America.

ConradP · 16-10-2011, 03:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Damo

It seems shipping takes a lot longer from countries around Europe than it does from America.

I ordered both my springs and strut bar at the same time and the springs came within 4-5 weeks and the strut 2 weeks later.

frozen xr5 · 16-10-2011, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConradP

Like I said they are all illegal unless I have washers for my headlamps, also I'd only go the 4300k heat HID's because anything higher gives that blue look, and I just don't want that.

ilegal yes but with projectors you wont have a problem if they are adjusted properlly. i have had hids in my previous 3 cars (mazda astina projector headlights, jdm legacy (they where factory hids in reflector lens), xr5 fitted with factory projector headlights with no washers or height adjustment. i have 4300k in my rs and i can tell you they are as yellow as halogens. if you want pure white you need to be in the 5000 to 6000k range.

frozen xr5 · 16-10-2011, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Damo

It seems shipping takes a lot longer from countries around Europe than it does from America.

depends if they are in stock and what level of postage they use. i got my springs from jw racing in 6 days. i also ordered some springs from european parts and they took 7 weeks...

Franco Cozzo · 16-10-2011, 06:23 PM

I looked at my front tyres, both of them are on the wear indicators on the very outside and very inside indicators, but the center of the tread is fine?

ConradP · 16-10-2011, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frozen xr5

depends if they are in stock and what level of postage they use. i got my springs from jw racing in 6 days. i also ordered some springs from european parts and they took 7 weeks...

This is true as well, I said my springs and strut took some time, but when I ordered my rims from ford-parts I got them within 5 days.

Russ · 16-10-2011, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Damo

I looked at my front tyres, both of them are on the wear indicators on the very outside and very inside indicators, but the center of the tread is fine?

That would usually indicate underinflation, what PSI are you running them at ?

Franco Cozzo · 16-10-2011, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russ

That would usually indicate underinflation, what PSI are you running them at ?

38-40 PSI, but from the local petrol station pressure guage.

rand0mn00b · 16-10-2011, 11:02 PM

yes sounds like under-inflation

have you changed your tyres/wheels to a different size? this can affect it

i find that the recommended pressures from the manual are way under optimal

also make sure you are measuring your tyre pressures from cold

Franco Cozzo · 16-10-2011, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rand0mn00b

yes sounds like under-inflation

have you changed your tyres/wheels to a different size? this can affect it

i find that the recommended pressures from the manual are way under optimal

also make sure you are measuring your tyre pressures from cold

Nope, factory stuff, the car has just over 15,000km on the clock and done its first service.

The petrol station is about 2.5km away from home, I go there to do it because i dont have an air compressor.

I know one was sitting on 22 psi recently when i checked because I had a puncture but that was a rear tyre, so I got that fixed up quickly.

rand0mn00b · 17-10-2011, 12:20 AM

well on FWD cars the front tyres will wear quicker, even more so on the front heavy diesel. did they rotate the tyres at the last service?

let's assume that the gauge at your local servo is off (but at least you have a consistently off benchmark from which to measure - I personally carry a gauge in my car but then again I also have an air compressor at home)

try increasing the pressures. the front should be 2-3 more than the rears unless you are towing or constantly carrying heavy loads in the boot

this might sound funny but whenever I inflated my tyres to the recommended pressures they just 'looked' under-inflated to me when viewing my car side on. as in the bottom of the tyres didn't seem to cope with the weight of the car so i inflated them (within max pressures specified on the tyre sidewall) until they looked better and then measured it on my gauge.

I experimented a few times to achieve a balance between ride comfort and wear which has since then yielded more even tyre wear. this method is far from scientific however :p

**DJM83** · 17-10-2011, 09:17 AM

Seen as this is someones build thread can we keep the off topic chat out please.

In Focus · 17-10-2011, 11:28 PM

Not to bore anyone further with my intake... but I found a product called "Tommy Tape" at that well known automotive store, Bunnings. It's a silicone-based tape good for up to 200C, takes 24 hours to take its final form, and can stretch up to 3 times its length, so you can make adjustments before everything's set in place. I was able to get more flex and point my velocity stack more to the front, although now the Ford badge might be a problem.

Anyway, the stuff looks pretty good, and could be something worth sticking in your glovebox as an emergency fix for hoses etc.

ConradP · 26-10-2011, 06:30 PM

Alright, got bored, like 5 mins ago and decided to debadge the rear, so here it is

I washed it on sunday so it's not perfectly clean butt still nice.

**DJM83** · 26-10-2011, 06:41 PM

You need a RHS reverse light... oh wait so do i

Looking good.

ConradP · 26-10-2011, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJM83

You need a RHS reverse light... oh wait so do i

Looking good.

You mean this?

http://www.teamtorquesteer.co.uk/ext...fog-light.html

Ordered it already ;)

**DJM83** · 26-10-2011, 06:57 PM

Yep thats it.

ConradP · 27-10-2011, 06:52 PM

Quick question, does anyone know if it's possible to get to the ecu without pulling the car apart? I ask because europarts has another flashing device that's just been put on the site, and I've emailed asking if they know if it will work with a 2010(it states 1996-2011) I got the reply of them asking if I could get the details from the sticker on my ecu to tell me if it will work.

http://www.european-parts.net/catalo...oducts_id=1265
this is the new item, works through your iphone o.O

Russ · 27-10-2011, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConradP

Quick question, does anyone know if it's possible to get to the ecu without pulling the car apart? I ask because europarts has another flashing device that's just been put on the site, and I've emailed asking if they know if it will work with a 2010(it states 1996-2011) I got the reply of them asking if I could get the details from the sticker on my ecu to tell me if it will work.

http://www.european-parts.net/catalo...oducts_id=1265
this is the new item, works through your iphone o.O

Pretty sure you'll find it's tucked away under the dash behind the glovebox. I'm not too sure how difficult it will be to get numbers from it

In Focus · 27-10-2011, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJM83

You need a RHS reverse light... oh wait so do i

Looking good.

He needs to get rid of the advertisement on the numberplate as well. I'd much rather advertise the car's model & make than some dealer...

ConradP · 28-10-2011, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by In Focus

He needs to get rid of the advertisement on the numberplate as well. I'd much rather advertise the car's model & make than some dealer...

Strapp ford's good though :P

DZFord · 29-10-2011, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConradP

Quick question, does anyone know if it's possible to get to the ecu without pulling the car apart? I ask because europarts has another flashing device that's just been put on the site, and I've emailed asking if they know if it will work with a 2010(it states 1996-2011) I got the reply of them asking if I could get the details from the sticker on my ecu to tell me if it will work.

http://www.european-parts.net/catalo...oducts_id=1265
this is the new item, works through your iphone o.O

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russ

Pretty sure you'll find it's tucked away under the dash behind the glovebox. I'm not too sure how difficult it will be to get numbers from it

The fuse box is located behind the glove box.

What you want is the sticker on the PCM - which is located in the engine bay, on the LS, it is in the back left-hand corner of the engine bay - and its a royal PITA to get to.

Russ · 29-10-2011, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DZFord

The fuse box is located behind the glove box.

What you want is the sticker on the PCM - which is located in the engine bay, on the LS, it is in the back left-hand corner of the engine bay - and its a royal PITA to get to.

I'm sure you'll find it's under the dash in the cabin in the LV models, I had a guy from Superchips (Peter) try to do a read on my 2011 Focus a while back and he looked in the usual place under the bonnet first and couldn't find it, when I told him I thought it was under the dash behind the glovebox he checked and confirmed it was

It too looks to be a royal PITA to get to :(

DZFord · 29-10-2011, 12:54 PM

Thanks Russ, that's good info to know. We are all slowly working out the more subtle differences between the LS/LT and the LV and the PCM location is just another one of these.

Russ · 29-10-2011, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DZFord

Thanks Russ, that's good info to know. We are all slowly working out the more subtle differences between the LS/LT and the LV and the PCM location is just another one of these.

No worries mate, it looks pretty bloody difficult to get to as well, but then again my old back won't take to crawling under dash boards anymore not like years ago, I'm sure one of the youngins will be flexible enough to get under there and sort it out though

DZFord · 29-10-2011, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russ

No worries mate, it looks pretty bloody difficult to get to as well, but then again my old back won't take to crawling under dash boards anymore not like years ago, I'm sure one of the youngins will be flexible enough to get under there and sort it out though

Haha when I changed the pollen filter in my car (also behind the dash / glove box), which required removal of the fuse box, I have back pain for about 2 days.

ConradP · 30-10-2011, 01:42 AM

Cheers Russ and DZ, i'll be using my young and agile frame when I get back in vic after the long weekend. Been gone the day and I wanna go for a drive..