I don't want to bore anyone but thought this may be useful information
Regarding the rotors advertised and some comments in the thread i would like to say that generally you get what you pay for and as the saying goes if you buy peanuts you get peanuts.99% of rotors here in Australia are made anywhere from China to Germany and the process including the temperature used when pouring the steel is different by every supplier.
In saying this, generally rotors don't just warp for no reason and if you take precautions the majority of aftermarket disc rotors and the right pad combination will work for the average car.
I have put some info down that may be of assistance to you.
Warping is primarily caused by excessive heat, which softens the metal and allows it to be reshaped. The main causes of overheating are: undersized or over machined brake discs, excessive braking (racing, descending hills/mountains), “riding” the brakes, or a “stuck” brake pad (pad touches disc at all times).
Another potential cause of warping is when the disc is overheated and the vehicle is stopped. When keeping the brakes applied, the area where the pads contact the disc will cause uneven cooling and lead to warping.
Warping can also be caused by improperly torquing the lug nuts when putting on a wheel.
Warping will often lead to a thickness variation of the disc. If it has runout, a thin spot will develop by the repetitive contact of the pad against the high spot as the disc turns. When the thin section of the disc passes under the pads, the pads move together and the brake pedal will drop slightly. When the thicker section of the disc passes between the pads, the pads will move apart and the brake pedal will raise slightly. This change causes pedal pulsation.
The thickness variation can be felt by the driver when it is approximately 0.007 inch or greater.
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