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Originally Posted by 5.0whiteaughia
You can check the knock sensor with a multimeter it should be under 10k
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That's 10k Ohms? How do you test it, across the 2 wires or from 1 of the wires to the body? Do you test it in place or loose? If in place, with ignition on or off?
I tested both the old and new ones loose on the bench, across the wires, then red wire to body (earth) then white wire to earth. Both showed open circuits in each case.
Ran OK for about 20 minutes then started pinking again.
: I have the knock sensor DTC up again. Manual says if it's not the knock sensor it could be wiring or the
ECU itself.
I have an intermittent flat spot from about 1800rpm to 2500 or so. Sometimes it's mild, sometimes it's hugely flat and the engine almost chokes to a standstill. Sometimes it's not flat at all. The only DTC showing is the knock sensor one.
I'm doing some basics tonight/tomorrow. New spark plugs in, new coilpack going in along with fuel filter. If no difference after that lot, where to next?
The old plugs have maybe 20,000km up but have been there through a patch of running really rich (like low 10's or less under load). They don't seem fouled, a bit sooty in the middle, light brown/grey on the outer electrode. But #4 stands out, the centre insulator is orange where the other plugs' insulators are still white.
Oh and now one of the HLA's is getting noisy. Starting to tap-tap-tap at idle. Oil is new, changed 3 days ago & still on the "full"mark. Every oil change in the last 5 years has had a flush put through before draining.
I'm starting to think a BF wagon from the auctions is looking a good prospect. 2 year old, 30,000km cars are going for $13,000 ATM.
$13,000... <insert word here> me!